Engine bay noise!

olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
one in need of a good shim / oil change can sound real tappy mate

how does it change when you rev it?

what your oil pressure like? does it rise as the load increases?
 
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SpHiNxXx

New Member
when i rev it... it goes up slightly but not soo much.. oil pressure is at 4 on the stock gauge at idle and yea it goes up oil temp and pressure gauge read withing the limits...
 
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Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
Sounds like metal slapping metal so I would rule out power steering pump.
If it's your timing chain, it must be really stretched or the chain tensioned has collapsed.
Grab a long screwdriver and use it like a stethoscope with driver end to the suspected source and handle to the ear.
Keep us posted.
BTW... good vid!
 
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SpHiNxXx

New Member
heres a little history on the noise....

it started about a week ago.. i fired up the car and the noise started... lasted about a minute or two before i shut her off... a few minutes later i started her up again and the noise was gone.... i went almost a week with no noise... yesterday it started again but went away after a minute or two... then later that day it came back and hasnt stopped since...

the car does need an oil change pretty badly.. its full but its starting to get black, also i recently had a problem with my AC Compressor so i bypassed the AC and ran a belt from crank to alt only, not sure if thats relevent.

the car is a 90 GTiR with 105k
 
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SpHiNxXx

New Member
ok so i did the stethescope thing and ive come to a conclusion that it is in fact the alternator bearings... theres a very pronounced vibration coming from the alternator and a clear audible tapping when i put the screwdriver to my ear... is there anyother way to test the alternator bearings? or any other suggestions? thanks for the quick replies guys, i appreciate it...!!!

anyone have an alt i could buy off them!?
 
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Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
SpHiNxXx said:
ok so i did the stethescope thing and ive come to a conclusion that it is in fact the alternator bearings... theres a very pronounced vibration coming from the alternator and a clear audible tapping when i put the screwdriver to my ear... is there anyother way to test the alternator bearings? or any other suggestions? thanks for the quick replies guys, i appreciate it...!!!

anyone have an alt i could buy off them!?
Click to expand...
You could just remove the belt to the alternator, run the engine and see if the offending noise has gone.
Best to get a recon unit instead of a second hand alternator!
 
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SpHiNxXx

New Member
im gonna be taking off the alternator myself to have it rebuilt...i hear its a real pain in the ass to take out.... im not a mechanic but im up for the challenge... any tips that might make it easier for me? what is it just a few hard to reach bolts? is that why its such a bitch? or is there other challenges that im going to face... to be honest i havnt even taken a good look at it yet. i wonder if theres a HOW-TO somewhere... any tips would be great while i find a DIY guide! thanks to all the replies and suggestions!! i really appreciate it!
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
It's only two bolts holding it on: One at the bottom that it pivots on; and one at the top, which is the adjuster.

The issue is getting access to them. I found that if you take the radiator overflow tank out, you can get a socket on the top one. To get to the bottom one I'd come from under the bumper, although it might just be easier to take the bumper off. - This is the bolt that will cause you trouble.

What does the service manual say? - Nothing helpful on the subject.
 
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SpHiNxXx

New Member
ok so i took off the alt belt and turned on the car!!

YAY!! NO NOISE!!!!

ok so im attempting to remove the alternator but theres not much room... ive taken apart the tensioner assembly and the upper rad hose and elbow to give me more room... i can see a bolt just above the alternator... am i taking that bolt out??? ive also removed the nut that holds the alternators pivot point.... from underneath i can see another bolt holding the alt to the block... i assume that has to come off as well... is there any other nuts or bolts that i need to remove??? i was told removing the alt was gonna be hard but if thats its... its not that bad!

ill try and get some pictures tommorow!
 
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NME_RR

New Member
The pivot bolt is around 8 inches long, you need to push it towards and almost behind the manifold and through both pivot points on the alternator, there is no need to unbolt anything from the block!

It can be a really fiddly job to do, and make sure you disconnect the battery!!
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Seconded - the top bolt just holds it to the adjuster (which you can leave in situ because it will still be in about the same place when you put everything back in). That pivot bolt is the problem; I'll bet it's good and stiff in there by now, but it needs to come all the way out. It should be slightly easier once the tension is off it.

Nothing else needs to come off - the process is quite simple, it's just that there's no (easy) access.

Kudos to Geoff Pine for diagnosing this one!
 
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SpHiNxXx

New Member
^ you aint kidding that theres not easy way to it!!!
damn pivot bolt ive got it most of the way out but its being blocked by what looks like the turbo housing or part of the manifold i cant get it out any further!! i might have to remove the manifold heatshield to get better access... any tips?
 
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NME_RR

New Member
dont remove the manifold it can be done in place!!

Once you have one hole free you can jiggle it about so it comes out straight!! It can be done easily if you know how, ,

If you have the radiator/ and or FMIC out , you can see there is a sliding pin on the alternator, , if you move the alternator so it has play on the pivot area it will slide out easily but there is Millimetre room for error!
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
If you get it to the last few mm it doesn't need to come all the way out; once it's out of the alternator you can drop that out. Once the alternator is out you should be able to get a bit more 'waggle' on it, although you don't actually need to take it out completely.

If you're having trouble moving it; take the weight off the alternator?
 
G

geoff pine

Well-Known Member
Take the bracket of its the easiest way the long bolt will not come out unless some one has already shortened it .
 
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