electrical issues

Daygo

New Member
Im having issues with keeping the car running.. battery seems okay.. turning the key all i hear is click click click.. ive just changed the alternator and had the system charge the battery like normal.. seems like as soon as i hit boost the system cracked up and packed in.. hope i dont need another alternator.. this problem first started when i connected my my amps up for my sound sys which i thought killed the alternator after pumping some decent power from the speaks and gprs running. Anyone have any ideas.. after i changed the alternator i didnt connect back up the amps again.. new reconditioned alternator worked for a day basically.. could it be a bad alternator or something else
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
I'd try a new battery anyway. - Most of the problems I have with starting or the engine dying have been caused by the battery.
 

Daygo

New Member
The batterys good still.. it has to be something else.. its having problems staying running like the power is decharging instead of recharging.. it gets to a stage where the car cannot rev higher than 3k and chockes or just wants to idle till it dies if i feed it gas it will choke till the battery is flat
 

Richard_Sideways

Active Member
I'm with Pobody on this one - battery sounds suspect. Beg, borrow or blag a spare battery and see if the problem goes away. Or build yourself a test rig for the battery and see how many AH you're actually getting from a full charge. If the battery was left uncharged for a long time there could be buildup on the plates, or you may have a couple of collapsed plates in there. It'll show full charge but won't be able to deliver the amps when needed.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
I saw my battery was good, bought and installed a new starter... no change.
Because people kept saying "it's the battery" I put a new one in to prove them wrong.

It only bloody started and ran.

We're not trying to be dicks; it's the voice of bitter experience. :rolleyes:
 

johnny gtir

Well-Known Member
You checked the crank pully ain't split and it's turning on outside ? What voltage you getting with the car running ?
 

Daygo

New Member
I replaced battery today.. car starts and runs but dies when negative removed.. ive just changed alternator.. guessing its due to faulty wiring?
 

Daygo

New Member
Il take it to electrician tomorow. ive got a new battery and new recon alternator that took on some oil and the belt might be alittle tight on it.. but that shouldnt cause it to die should it?
 

Daygo

New Member
After reading up on alternators.. im guessing its a dodgy alternator.. lasted for a day with a high pitched squeel from the belt for 5-10 minutes.. that must of been the end of it as the battery started to decharge itself from then
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
I replaced battery today.. car starts and runs but dies when negative removed.. ive just changed alternator.. guessing its due to faulty wiring?
Negative battery terminal? Shouldn't it die anyway when you do that as you've broken the electric circuit?
 

Richard_Sideways

Active Member
Err, isn't it generally a bad idea to disconnect the battery from a running engine? Correct me if i'm wrong but the alternator charges the battery and the batteries job is to provide clean power to the cars system, rather than the lumpy, spiking power coming out of the alternator. Running a car with any sort of electronics without a clean power source is asking for electronics trouble. You used to be able to do it back in the day, when electrical systems were simple, but if you've got ECUs and other systems running, spiking the power system is running a pretty big risk of problems.
 

warpspeed

Well-Known Member
Check your earths, the alternator earths through the block so if the alternator, bracket and/or block aren't clean it's not going to charge properly, check the earth strap from the block to the chassis leg and battery too.
 

Jon Olds

Well-Known Member
Why disconnect the negative with the engine running? If its running properly with a new battery, it has been a battery problem. Hot tip from someone who rallies with lots of auxiliary lights is to fit a voltmeter with a dedicated feed wire directly from the alternator output terminal, sensing true charging volts. That way you can take some action immediately this changes rather than wait for the whole system to shut down. Works for me, anyway
Jon
 

johnny gtir

Well-Known Member
I don't know if it is working still he said a day and the new alt stopped I think ? Hence I say that was just a good battery lasted that day. It should be simple as what voltage he is getting with it running like I asked? Then I know a fair few problem areas that would cause his problem which voltage dependant we could of moved onto
 

Daygo

New Member
Hey guys thanks for the posts.. it is the alternator that was the problem.. ive replaced it and all is back to normal. I suspect it was the oil and coolant that i spilled on it..lol my bad.. i snapped an oil line installing an aftermarket manifold and oil was spewing everywhere.. alot went on the alternator and the coolant being directly ontop of it as i disconnected the hose it kept flowing from the block straight on it.. never had this happen with my other gtir. Ive yet got to hook up the voltage meter but its charging the battery for more than 3 days now so it must be fine.. thanks for the suggestions and help. I will install a meter to the alternator at some stage cheers
 
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