difference between sr20det gtir headgasket and sr20det gasket

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pulsarmad20

Member
Hi All

I would like to know what the difference is between a sr20det head gasket and a gtir sr20det gasket is ? if any??


thanks

sam
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
The block shape is ever so slightly different (ours is thicker and possibly shorter), and the bolt holes are a different size IIRC. - I'm pretty sure you can get the other gasket to fit and work if you carefully resize the holes in it.
 
T

turugtir

New Member
I thought the main difference were the dowel pins (the ones to locate the head into the block). Are head bolts different too?
 
S

stevie leese

New Member
PobodY said:
The block shape is ever so slightly different (ours is thicker and possibly shorter), and the bolt holes are a different size IIRC. - I'm pretty sure you can get the other gasket to fit and work if you carefully resize the holes in it.
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you deffo can, i have done it.it worked fine.:lol:
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
turugtir said:
I thought the main difference were the dowel pins (the ones to locate the head into the block). Are head bolts different too?
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No, sorry that's what I meant. I just got confused? :oops:

Our block is definitely different, and I thought that meant the gasket wasn't a perfect fit (but was good enough to work).
 
vpulsar

vpulsar

Well-Known Member
PobodY said:
No, sorry that's what I meant. I just got confused? :oops:

Our block is definitely different, and I thought that meant the gasket wasn't a perfect fit (but was good enough to work).
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The blocks are totally different the pulsar block is a lot narrower than the rear wheel drive wide block but I'm not sure just how different the head gaskets are.

If you turn both blocks upside down and sit them next to each other you'll see the difference.

The narrow block was designed first and is used in a number of applications. If the vehicle you obtained the engine from has AWD then it is almost certain you have a narrow block -- the narrow block allows greater room for the transaxle.

Narrow block



wide block



John
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
before you make a huge error sam (yes il help on this one so take my advice or leave it, upto you either way)
do not buy any of those headgaskets in links, the two links that you came up with are blueprint oe gaskets and way overpriced!

if you want a stock h/g which is all you need then go to a nissan dealer and buy one, it will not cost more than £30 for pulsar / sunny gtir.

if on the other hand you want to upgrade it then do not fit a cometic gasket link above) as it will blow, im not gonna go into whys and why nots but you will see!

only fit either a cosworth or hks h/g, the cosworth one will need the dowels opening out with a dremmel or drill bit but is around £90 and vvery good
hks is a straight fit but that will cost double that.
on the power your running you will only need a stock nissan gasket which is what was originally fitted, get head checked for flatness if it needs skimming then use a 1.5mm cosworth gasket
 
P

pulsarmad20

Member
hi
bob
thank you for helping me after all the grief and nastiness i have gave you.

as for the head gasket and head

the head has been sent to a place near me where they are going to pressure test it if it comes back good they will then skim it.

he also said that even if they skim it that i can put standard gasket on but if your saying to put a thicker one on i will. As i just want the bloody thing working now.

my boss put a flat level thing on the head and it has 0.07 gap between the head and the level thing.

to be honest with you i havent got a clue whats wrong with it.
(miss firing and water in the first cylinder)

thanks

sam
 
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pulsarmad20

Member
oh i forgot to say but i think i neeed a full gasket set as i need the valve stem seals head gasket and various gasket that go around the head and also change the head bolts for new normal ones.
 
vpulsar

vpulsar

Well-Known Member
pulsarboby said:
only fit either a cosworth or hks h/g, the cosworth one will need the dowels opening out with a dremmel or drill bit but is around £90 and vvery good
hks is a straight fit but that will cost double that.
on the power your running you will only need a stock nissan gasket which is what was originally fitted, get head checked for flatness if it needs skimming then use a 1.5mm cosworth gasket
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Personally I really don't like the idea of paying nearly a £100 head gasket only to have to modify it to suit, I used an HKS gasket on mine and it ran 2 bar all day long with out issue, I'm all for saving a few bob here and there but not on something that would need the engine to be removed and stripped down to replace if something isn't quite right, I know it can be done in situ but that's a right pain in the arse as well, Either fit the standard gasket as Bob advises or buy the right engine specific gasket form either HKS or Tomie.

How many times have we all tried to save money only for it to end up costing us twice as much in the end because we've had to do the bloody job twice, Buy cheap buy twice is the old saying isn't it lol.


John
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
water under bridge now as far as im concerned,we both felt strongly regarding our points but gain nothing by dwelling on them, whats done is done, lifes too short to bear grudges.

ok onto your problems
head bolts can be reused upto 3 times but we have used them once already so suggest you replace them as a precaution as that would have been two known times they have been used.

was thinking why that could have gone like that and i think i now have the answer!
when you initially phoned me from dover you said there was smoke coming out of the bonnet and your alternator light was on so i initially thought at 11o/c at night that its possibly a dodgy alternator.
well after thinking about it i reckon what had happened is that the water pump seal had gone so water must have been running down through the weep hole in the pump and dripping onto the belt....this could have caused the belt to slip and bring on the battery warning light, the car could then have lost coolant on your journey back through france and this in turn would have blown the headgasket and led to troubles.
when we sorted the engine before car was sold we did not renew water pump or any ancilliary parts as its not part of the engine as such so these things can happen at anytime to anyone its just unfortunate for it to go when it did but i can assure you it wasnt leaking on any test we gave it or it simply would have been replaced.

if the head has 0.07mm this equates to over 8thou which is the limit for needing head skimmed so it has warped and will now require skimming.
valve stem seals are fine and do not need doing again but if you want to do it then thats upto you.
do not messup the shims in the head as they were shimmed and are matched to each particular valve the same goes with cam caps....they must go back in correct order or the cams can snatch and the engine will sound like a bucket of spanners.
you have no need to remove the valves as they can skim the head with these in situ.
also check for any possible distortion on block face and possible cracks around liner tops.
i would still use a stock headgasket (which are 1.4mm uncompressed) this will be vmore than adequate for the power you will be running and a damned site cheaper than the multilayer counterparts, also if there is any slight distortion on block deck then this will take it out where as if you use a multilayer steel gasket it has to be 100% flat!
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
John Doe said:
The blocks are totally different the pulsar block is a lot narrower than the rear wheel drive wide block but I'm not sure just how different the head gaskets are.
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Thanks for setting me right in such a helpful manner. - I knew they were different, which is why I don't think the gasket would be a perfect fit; it will work, I'm sure. However, will it be as good as putting in the correct one in the first place?

Like you say, there's no point skimping on something that requires you to take the engine apart to replace.
 
P

pulsarmad20

Member
ok
thanks bob

about the shims they have been taken out and all put in separate bag with numbers on (with valve and valve springs). some shims where a little flaky. the valves have already been taken out as its being pressure tested etc.

valve seals they have been taken out to do the pressure test (well i think they have i left them on but i think they will remove them).


where can i get all these items from and at a reasonable price (that deliver to france) bob from what i understand you do most things are they new or used?

coil pack ( i dropped it)
water pump
thermostat
head gasket set or just head gasket but what gasket do i buy?
head bolts
clutch slave cylinder

probably need more things

thanks

sam
 
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