bottem end rebuild

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boozyboo

Guest
hello again peps.
iv posted about my r being broke before iv spun no 4 shell. im getting a crank and new shells. but is there a list or can some one do a list of any other bits i have to replace, the reason i ask is because i need to buy all the bits and give the car to my machanic so he can fix it. any help will be apreciated.

p.s i might get a lightend flywheel at the same time. would it be straight swap and is there a real noticible difference in it to standard

cheers guys
 
I

irishjohn

Guest
i would change the rings when u have the pistons out, hone the bore and also replace the oil pump for a high capacity one...why the new crank?...why not just have it machined and polished?
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
irishjohn said:
i would change the rings when u have the pistons out, hone the bore and also replace the oil pump for a high capacity one...why the new crank?...why not just have it machined and polished?
Click to expand...
The oil pump on the Pulsar SR20DET engine is the biggest capacity one of all the SR20 engines, no need to upgrade, there isn't an upgrade available anyway. No point in getting the crank polished unless your chasing big power.

boozy, do a search for "rebuild" you will find this subject has been covered alot but basic parts would be

Gasket set from Nissan
Crank re grind and bearings to suit (bearings can be bought from Nissan)
water pump from Nissan
oil pump rotors from Nissan
New Timing chain guides from Nissan
New rings from Nissan if keeping standard pistons


if you have spun a bearing the most important thing you can do is to get the block, rods and pistons checked. Making sure the main bearing journals are straight in the block and making sure the rods are straight. Then get crank, rods, flywheel, crank pulley and clutch cover balanced.

There are parts you could add to that list but they are the very basic things that are worth while doing whilst the engine is out
 
B

boozyboo

Guest
its never ending aaahhhhhhhhhh. these cars should be sold with bottemless pit wrote next to it :lol: its all fun and games. has any one got a short engine (have i got that right) to sell. i want an easy way out now, so shes running then i can spend time rebuilding my old one and then at least have a spare. saying that i might buy a car as a spare :lol: with my luck think il need one hehe.

p.s cheers for all your imput.
 
I

irishjohn

Guest
unless you are gunning for big power (400hp+) the standard bottom end will be fine...as far as forged pistons go..hmmmm...most are scrap. just get your fueling and spark spot on and the stock slugs are fine.
 
GTIR-LOZ

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
:roll:

just rebuilding my engine now bottom end is as follows

arp rod bolts
arp main bearing bolts
acl race main bearings
acl race thrust bearings
acl race big end bearings
forged hks 87mm pistons
hks 1.2 mm headgasket
new nissan water pump
new nissan oil pump
new timing chain
new timing chain tensioner
new timing chain guides
bottom end balanced(crank re-faced, rods, crank, crank pulley, jun flywheel and helix clutch balanced)
new small end bearings (to fit hks pistons)
engine gasket kit

should be good for over 400 bhp
 
warringtonjack

warringtonjack

Active Member
GTIR-LOZ said:
:roll:

just rebuilding my engine now bottom end is as follows

arp rod bolts
arp main bearing bolts
acl race main bearings
acl race thrust bearings
acl race big end bearings
forged hks 87mm pistons
hks 1.2 mm headgasket
new nissan water pump
new nissan oil pump
new timing chain
new timing chain tensioner
new timing chain guides
bottom end balanced(crank re-faced, rods, crank, crank pulley, jun flywheel and helix clutch balanced)
new small end bearings (to fit hks pistons)
engine gasket kit

should be good for over 400 bhp
Click to expand...
Given this sort of engine spec, what would hold a car back from reliably producing 500+ bhp? Assuming the turbo will provide it, and the drivetrain will take it obviously :D .
 
GTIR-LOZ

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
maybe the rods but have heard various figures of strength from 450bhp to 600hp as its mostly revs that kill rods i hope they will be ok for what i want also you may need a ported and flowed head and cams fro 500 hp
 
B

boozyboo

Guest
500hp:rolleyes: would be nice but i think its abit out of my league. my motor is virtually standard. infact you proberly no it. its silver. nom plate GTR. its been photoed cos its in the group gallery. really i jus want to get it going cos my escort van really pi$$ing me off:mad:. i aint no power hungry stirling moss. i jus like winding the blokes who sit in an office (no ofence to any one) who spend 30k on a bm/merc/imshitza for me to sit up there ass and push them along.:lol: :car: vroooom....
i think il cheat and just buy a short engine. and when i win the lottery:thumbsup: il think about splashing the cash on a complete rebuild. you gota think positive when you drive a pulse_RRRRRRR

LOZ...... How much was the jun fly wheel, good luck with the build.

Thanks again
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
all you need to do lewis is get that crank sorted (ive got one you can have), check theres no damage to the rod and bearing cap.
buy a new set of acl bearings
and stick it all back together. theres no need to spend loads of money on it, that you havent got, just get it back running the cheapest way possible, and run the new bearings & crank in for 500 miles, before you start to abuse it.

you will be better to do what aarons doing, and build another uprated engine up bit by bit as and when you have the money, that way it wont hit your pocket so hard.
otherwise these cars will keep you brassic to the point where you will hate the fcuking things and they start to take over your life! then you will end up selling it for peanuts to someone like myself, just to see the back of it.

words of wisdom lewis! heed them;-)
 
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B

boozyboo

Guest
i know what you saying mate. i was just enquiring about stuff. i just dont wont to fix it, put it all back together an something break that i could have uprated.
the holder is slightly scored. i cant feel it with my finger but i can with my nail. does this mean its f=cked. out of interest bob how much would you do it for me. thats if you wont to (pm me). i wona do it myself but i wont it to work after lol im worred about my machanic doing it because he aint never worked on 1 before. cheers bob

loz......thats not bad, wots it weigh , is it a straight swop.
 
O

Odin

Guest
pulsarboby said:
and run the new bearings & crank in for 500 miles, before you start to abuse it
Click to expand...

:shock: :doh: Why would you need to run in something that should have no contact :? :der: , If it's built properly then their isn't going to be any metal to metal contact is their, Which means how the f*ck can they be run in :? .

I'm only running mine in for 30 miles and that's only to get the rings to fit the bores properly.....


Rob
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
any moving engine part should be run in:der: especially bigend and main bearings! you go tearing the ass out of a newly built crank and watch it break on you:lol: then come back and give me another derr sign lol

all moving engine parts including cams, pistons, shells, bearinga etc should not be put under extreme loads from the off, all these parts rely on an oil film to seperate them from there metal counterparts

not gonna go into how a car should be run in as thats a different subject all together with varying views, but you should not cane the ass out of something thats newly built untill it has some miles under it.
 
O

Odin

Guest
pulsarboby said:
not gonna go into how a car should be run in as thats a different subject all together with varying views, but you should not cane the ass out of something thats newly built untill it has some miles under it.
Click to expand...

We will see who's right then when I map mine to 500 bhp after 30 miles then, Still don't agree that parts that have an oil film between them could be run ,in any way shape or form :der: :roll: .

Tell exactly why cams/cranks/bearings should be run in ?, Once the oil pressure is up then their should be no contact.




Rob
 
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