making an elbow
- Thread starter sypher
- Start date
A
AndrewD
Guest
well are you going to support the turbo weight by brakets or the manifold itself?
if with brackets you can go down to 1.6mm wall thickness and 10mm flanges, dont forget to drill 2 mm oversize holes for the bolts to allow for expansion, and even better than a single piece flange, make em all separate
made my na manifold at 0.9mm mildsteel wall and 10 mm bizmouth-alloy single flanges and its sweet
if with brackets you can go down to 1.6mm wall thickness and 10mm flanges, dont forget to drill 2 mm oversize holes for the bolts to allow for expansion, and even better than a single piece flange, make em all separate
made my na manifold at 0.9mm mildsteel wall and 10 mm bizmouth-alloy single flanges and its sweet
1
1000ny
Guest
following in this theme, what is the best material to make a high flow manifold out of?
could you use titanium?
and what would you use to shape the pipes, normal pipe bender or mandrel welder?
could you use titanium?
and what would you use to shape the pipes, normal pipe bender or mandrel welder?
P
paulrandy
Guest
Personally i'd use 1.6mm mild steel as it doesnt crack as bad as stainless.
You could use tittanium but it's an arse to weld (you have to do it inside a tank) and yeah you'd have to mandrel bend it really.
You could use tittanium but it's an arse to weld (you have to do it inside a tank) and yeah you'd have to mandrel bend it really.
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AndrewD
Guest
it doesnt matter what material you use for flow
yes stainless does get brittle, and if you really have the money go for 'inconel'
realistically, ceramic coated mildsteel is better than straight stainless
stainless is prone to cracking (so is mild but not so bad) just make sure you have a flexible joint after the turbo
you want someone with a mandrel bender FOR THE PARTICULAR THICKNESS AND ID you want. i cant stress that enough. they need the right internal and external dies and right wipers. if you can find someone with a 4 ball die or more, your in happy land
be careful though, you might not find anyone able to bend anything under 1.6mm!
yes stainless does get brittle, and if you really have the money go for 'inconel'
realistically, ceramic coated mildsteel is better than straight stainless
stainless is prone to cracking (so is mild but not so bad) just make sure you have a flexible joint after the turbo
you want someone with a mandrel bender FOR THE PARTICULAR THICKNESS AND ID you want. i cant stress that enough. they need the right internal and external dies and right wipers. if you can find someone with a 4 ball die or more, your in happy land
be careful though, you might not find anyone able to bend anything under 1.6mm!
L
Little Erve
Guest
What's this inside a tank business? just pipe argon through the inside of the manifold when you're welding it etc.. (you could do it).paulrandy said:
Also I would have thought a ceramic would be the best thing to make an exhaust out of? seeing as they're good heat insulators.
Are ceramics too brittle or something?
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AndrewD
Guest
thats what inconel is, its a cermaic / metal compound used on most space applications such as exhaust nozzles, plus they also use it in f1 exhausts, BUT its very brittle
it welds, amazingly but can be formed to, only problem is trying to get it
it welds, amazingly but can be formed to, only problem is trying to get it
P
Pulldog
Guest
Inconel can be very hard to weld i mean i am a fabricator and welder by trade and inconel can be a twat, you can weld it with disimmilar wire but to do a proper job you need to be a welder and useinconel wire and argon with sealed ends, if you dont use argon u'll be left with lack of fusion.
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AndrewD
Guest
yes all you need is to purge the inner and make sure you have the right filler rodPULLDOG said:
no probs hehehe
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Anonymous
Guest
a properly designed and manufactured manifold made out of stainless will last a very long time. 8)
for example
for example
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AndrewD
Guest
yo javier seeing as you work for this company, can i ask a question
which valve duration do you use in calculating your lengths for the exhaust
for pulse tuning
is it
a) exhaust valve open duration
b) exhaust valve open duration - valve overlap duration
this is not a trick question ok
im just curious as i design these babies myself, and ever text ive seen says A, but you could design for both i think if you aim at having in B the pulse arrive at the exhaust port just as the intake valve opens, and then again as the exhaust valve is about to close (A)
what you think?
which valve duration do you use in calculating your lengths for the exhaust
for pulse tuning
is it
a) exhaust valve open duration
b) exhaust valve open duration - valve overlap duration
this is not a trick question ok
im just curious as i design these babies myself, and ever text ive seen says A, but you could design for both i think if you aim at having in B the pulse arrive at the exhaust port just as the intake valve opens, and then again as the exhaust valve is about to close (A)
what you think?