View attachment 1631
All credit to whoever thought of this.
Note. If your working in a small garage you will need about 3 or 4 feet of room on the passenger side.
You may need to remove wires for the reverse light etc, remove when you see necessary
Jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands.
Remove NS (passenger side) wheel.
Drain the gearbox fluid,
Remove IC if it's the standard top mount.
Remove battery and tray.
Remove air filter and induction pipe from filter to turbo.
Undo NS drive shaft hub nut, bottom ball joint and remove complete drive shaft including the long shaft that goes inside the box, ie don't undo the inner cv joint flange bolts put prise the entire assembly out of the box.
Support engine using a hoist or similar.
Remove front centre and rear centre engine stabiliser bars.The rear one is below the inlet manifold (you just need to remove the main through bolt on each one - about 3inch long).
Remove the complete NS front and NS rear engine mounts.
Lower the engine about 3 or 4 inches (it will tilt down on the NS).
Remove the bolt that holds reverse gear idler shaft support. (i'll try and get pictures of this bolt).
Remove the two detent ball retainer bolts and the springs and balls if you can.(pics to follow)
Remove the bolts around the gearbox that hold the two halves together(about 15 of them M8 thread, 12mm head).
Remove gear box casing! (you may need to tap it gently with a hammer).
You now have complete access to the gearbox internals, should have taken you less than 2 hours!
Do what ever you gotta do.
Refitting is basically the reversal of removal, use a decent RTA gasket sealer to re-seal the box, make sure the joints are clean and dry. The reverse gear support can be tricky to get the bolt back in, use a small screwdriver or something to line the thread back up.
All credit to whoever thought of this.
Note. If your working in a small garage you will need about 3 or 4 feet of room on the passenger side.
You may need to remove wires for the reverse light etc, remove when you see necessary
Jack the front of the car up and support on axle stands.
Remove NS (passenger side) wheel.
Drain the gearbox fluid,
Remove IC if it's the standard top mount.
Remove battery and tray.
Remove air filter and induction pipe from filter to turbo.
Undo NS drive shaft hub nut, bottom ball joint and remove complete drive shaft including the long shaft that goes inside the box, ie don't undo the inner cv joint flange bolts put prise the entire assembly out of the box.
Support engine using a hoist or similar.
Remove front centre and rear centre engine stabiliser bars.The rear one is below the inlet manifold (you just need to remove the main through bolt on each one - about 3inch long).
Remove the complete NS front and NS rear engine mounts.
Lower the engine about 3 or 4 inches (it will tilt down on the NS).
Remove the bolt that holds reverse gear idler shaft support. (i'll try and get pictures of this bolt).
Remove the two detent ball retainer bolts and the springs and balls if you can.(pics to follow)
Remove the bolts around the gearbox that hold the two halves together(about 15 of them M8 thread, 12mm head).
Remove gear box casing! (you may need to tap it gently with a hammer).
You now have complete access to the gearbox internals, should have taken you less than 2 hours!
Do what ever you gotta do.
Refitting is basically the reversal of removal, use a decent RTA gasket sealer to re-seal the box, make sure the joints are clean and dry. The reverse gear support can be tricky to get the bolt back in, use a small screwdriver or something to line the thread back up.
had all the pics with it as well. really really helpful guide - prob the best one on here 
