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tro||
Guest
or one of those gizzmos that gives a choice of engine noises that change with your revs, that would be awesomeAJ4 said:
ooh-ooh, a Corvette sounding SR20 
:der: :roll:
:der: :roll:
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Leecarmichaeluk
Guest
not done the fault code thing , how do u do it on the pulsar?
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Leecarmichaeluk
Guest
not done the fault code thing , how do u do it on the pulsar? what is this safe mode thing
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Leecarmichaeluk
Guest
not done the fault code thing , how do u do it on the pulsar? what is this safe mode thing i have been reading about too
gtirx2
Member
Its proberbly just what gtir bean said you need a softer spring in the d/v to make it work right.gtir bean said:
As for your lack of boost it sounds like you are running just on actulator pressure,is your standed boost soleinoid pluged/plumed in right and are the small pipes still conected to it?
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Leecarmichaeluk
Guest
yeah the small pipes are connected to it , but i dont know if there connected to the right places, could you tell me where the pipes are ment to be
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Leecarmichaeluk
Guest
right ill give that a check, is there a way to check if the solenoid is broken
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S.J
Guest
my mate got one of those of ebay himself, i fitted it for him an it sounds just the way you descibe, although it was for a cupra sport, it still sounded pants when dumping .. more like a sneeze than anythin haha
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Leecarmichaeluk
Guest
i have bought one of these for my starlet before and it sounded good, only down fall is its a diaphram one which means they can sometime rip unlike the piston ones. i would have thought that it would be the same or louder on the pulsar (the diaphram ones are ment to be the loudest ones due to the design of them) it does not really sound like it is dumping just sounds like the turbo spooling then a very high pitched chatter.
Dooie Pop Pop
New Member
make sure the vucuum pipe that goes to the dv isn' t pinched or bent at all or it wont dump properly..
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Leecarmichaeluk
Guest
i checked the pipes gong to the solenoid and they where round the wrong way , cant go out and test it the now because i have a car infront of it and dont have the keys for it but will give it a test soon. would this cause this kind of problem?
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Leecarmichaeluk
Guest
i have been out in it now and the car seems alot faster now that i have swapped the hoses round and the standard gauge reads 0.7bar or just on the beginning of it. the other aftermarket one reads around 0.4 i think still not going over the 0.5 maybe its broken
Braveheart
New Member
In responce to antgtir issue regarding "Hesitation between 3k to 4.5k rpm + Fueling issues??" I had a similar problem.
I picked up a GTIR last month and felt it was running a bit funky. It seemed to pick up ok at low revs but stuttered and hesitated badly between 4.5 - 5k rpm. When I layed off the gas the damned thing wanted to go. Not good when you are entering a corner looking for engine breaking. It was also idling high (1100rpm) and just felt a bit unwell.
The car it's self is bulk standard except for a mongoose exhaust (without cat) and sump guard but with a poor service history (jap 18k service). I bought it off a farmer who had owned it for 4 years and done 2k miles in that time. It has 60k on the clock, it was imported in 2002.
Anyway, given the service history and poor performance, I booked it in for the full boona.
Falkland performace changed all the fluids, plugs, point, air filter (now K&N) front disks and pads and rear pads. (disks and pads were well shot.... it was grinding along)
I was full of hope but the car was still running poorly.
It turned out to be the knock sensor (error code 34) This sensor they explained was there to pick up pinking etc and when triggered would retard the ignition timming by 6deg. It's meant to reset it's self but did not and I thing I will source a new sensor.
They reset the ECU and the error was gone. The car is now running fine. Much smoother, pulls all the way through the rev band and thankfully enters engine breaking now when I gas off. I did refrain from taking it out on the track at knock hill last sunday however as I have a sneaky suspition the problem would return plus I did not want to buy another set of brake pads so soon.
Hope this information helps and I may post it in a couple of other places on this web site.
Lang may your lumb reek... all the best Braveheart (Scott)
I picked up a GTIR last month and felt it was running a bit funky. It seemed to pick up ok at low revs but stuttered and hesitated badly between 4.5 - 5k rpm. When I layed off the gas the damned thing wanted to go. Not good when you are entering a corner looking for engine breaking. It was also idling high (1100rpm) and just felt a bit unwell.
The car it's self is bulk standard except for a mongoose exhaust (without cat) and sump guard but with a poor service history (jap 18k service). I bought it off a farmer who had owned it for 4 years and done 2k miles in that time. It has 60k on the clock, it was imported in 2002.
Anyway, given the service history and poor performance, I booked it in for the full boona.
Falkland performace changed all the fluids, plugs, point, air filter (now K&N) front disks and pads and rear pads. (disks and pads were well shot.... it was grinding along)
I was full of hope but the car was still running poorly.
It turned out to be the knock sensor (error code 34) This sensor they explained was there to pick up pinking etc and when triggered would retard the ignition timming by 6deg. It's meant to reset it's self but did not and I thing I will source a new sensor.
They reset the ECU and the error was gone. The car is now running fine. Much smoother, pulls all the way through the rev band and thankfully enters engine breaking now when I gas off. I did refrain from taking it out on the track at knock hill last sunday however as I have a sneaky suspition the problem would return plus I did not want to buy another set of brake pads so soon.
Hope this information helps and I may post it in a couple of other places on this web site.
Lang may your lumb reek... all the best Braveheart (Scott)