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Anonymous
Guest
how is this fitted to the gtir? ive got 1 to put in tomorrow any help would be great
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Anonymous
Guest
the autometer gague will nto work as the standard O2 sensor in the GTi-R operates in the range of 1.5V -2.5V i think where as the autometer gauge operates in the range 0V-1V so the reading will be out.
The best way to get a gauge working is to tap another O2 sensor in there (any bosch one but check voltage outputs) and just run the gauge of the second sensor
Gino
In da integra and civic
switching fo' lanes
wit da pedal down screeming out racin' aint a thing
The best way to get a gauge working is to tap another O2 sensor in there (any bosch one but check voltage outputs) and just run the gauge of the second sensor
Gino
In da integra and civic
switching fo' lanes
wit da pedal down screeming out racin' aint a thing
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Anonymous
Guest
tap in another sensor, ok, I got the same autometer afr meter... So where and how do I tap this 2nd sensor in ?
S
Sirnixalot
Guest
ive used an autometer ultra lit A/F ratio gauge on my car with the standard O2 sensor. You need to fin pin number 19 ont he ECU....if you need help on that check www.ggon.net and go to GTi-R information for the ECU pin outs
S
Sirnixalot
Guest
i couldnt tell you that one....i took it off as i preffer to hav ean EGT gauge there...i sold it, you cant really use those gauges as a basis for precise tuning. They are very general...you are either rich, stoich or lean. You would be better off spending the money on an EGT gauge...it will give you a better idea. I must admit though.....it does look really cool 
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Anonymous
Guest
Ok, I have this same ultra light afr gauge from autometer, but the ecu pin-out on the ggon website doesn't work, at least the link doesn't...
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Would it be possible to have a resistor/small coil or summat(don't know jack about electronic terms)that can convert the voltage into something the Autometer can understand?
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Anonymous
Guest
How sure are u on the fact that the GTiR sensor is from 1,5 - 2,5 volts ?
Cause I could make something that would transform the voltages... It could be passive, so wouldn't need any extra electrical power.
Cause I could make something that would transform the voltages... It could be passive, so wouldn't need any extra electrical power.
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Anonymous
Guest
if u use 2 diodes in line with the sensor, U'll drop the voltage by 1,4 volts, very close already.
I'm just gonna trie and find out if there are any 1,5 volt zener diodes...
I'm just gonna trie and find out if there are any 1,5 volt zener diodes...
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Anonymous
Guest
I've just checked the signal on pin 19 of my ecu, and it goes from 0-1,2 volt... This means I can just use the afr meter from autostyle. Seems to be a few differences between pulsars ? The gauge also reads good, lean when idle-ing, going from lean to rich when stepping on it and jumping over stoich when cruising... Looks great !!!
O
Olly
Guest
Yeah the gauge will be fine but the R does sometimes show something like 1.5 volts when the gauge stops at 1 volt on full chat, i believe
P
purplemonster
Guest
i fitted one to my R and it works a treat ,but it also whos how poor the nissan fueling is under all conditions ,and my cars runs pefectly?
thats why aftermarket fuel controllers works so well ?
Rob
thats why aftermarket fuel controllers works so well ?
Rob
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Anonymous
Guest
well, mine runs pretty rich all the time...
Could you tell me how you fitted your gauge, Rob ?
Cause when I turn on my headlights the afr gauge stops working
I could measure what I've done wrong, but if you tell me what's the right way, that'll be alot faster
Could you tell me how you fitted your gauge, Rob ?
Cause when I turn on my headlights the afr gauge stops working
I could measure what I've done wrong, but if you tell me what's the right way, that'll be alot faster
C
chrislloydus
Guest
people are missing the point here. The problem lies with the Nissan lambda sensor. Its just not accurate in the area you want to monitor ! The ECU only uses the lambda in closed loop (ie cruising) when its trying to get you the best fuel economy by getting the mixture as close to 14.7:1 as possible. On acceleration the ECU ignores the lamdba because its so inaccurate.
Normal lambda sensors (ie like the Nissan one) are so called narrow band and have one major flaw. They only indicate that you are running rich or lean but they can't tell you how rich or how lean. This is because when you get outside the stoichiometric AFR (14.7 air to fuel ratio) the sensor output voltage rises or drops drmatically making it very difficult to see exactly where on the curve you are ie they are only accurate at 14.7 !!
The solution. The wide band sensor. This is the 5 wire sensor, which has a built in oxygen pump and heater circuit to achieve a very low change in output voltage even outside the stoich area. So what's the catch? There is only ONE wide band sensor. It's made by NGK/NTK/BOSCH (all the same sensor)......and they are about £200 a shot.
try : http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
and : http://www.lambdaboy.com/product.html
Buy an EGT gauge - much more useful.
Chris
Normal lambda sensors (ie like the Nissan one) are so called narrow band and have one major flaw. They only indicate that you are running rich or lean but they can't tell you how rich or how lean. This is because when you get outside the stoichiometric AFR (14.7 air to fuel ratio) the sensor output voltage rises or drops drmatically making it very difficult to see exactly where on the curve you are ie they are only accurate at 14.7 !!
The solution. The wide band sensor. This is the 5 wire sensor, which has a built in oxygen pump and heater circuit to achieve a very low change in output voltage even outside the stoich area. So what's the catch? There is only ONE wide band sensor. It's made by NGK/NTK/BOSCH (all the same sensor)......and they are about £200 a shot.
try : http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
and : http://www.lambdaboy.com/product.html
Buy an EGT gauge - much more useful.
Chris