Search results

I wasnt that impressed with the ones from Australia, they were not very accurate and imo a waste of money. Best method is to simply measure the gap, and punch out the required thickess from a feeler blade and insert it into the shim bucket. Its much cheaper and more accurate, :blush:

Please pm me if you have one? Cheers Neil

All sorted now thanks, :blush:

Pping me if you hsve any? Cheers Neil

Ive got a spare but some of the rubber has split, (easily refurbed by filling with tiger seal ir similar)

please pm me if you have one? Thanks Neil

Also make sure you put new shift linkage bushes in, this could be a root cause of failure,

Doing a rebuild yourself isnt as daunting as you might think, As long as you have the right tools (bearing pullers, feeler gauges, seal removers and a press) you can do it. Just follow the workshop manual to the letter and be OCD and document and carefully store every part you remove. All...

Yeah, it is, On all other gearboxes ive worked on the sealsare fitted from the outside, but not on this one. Totally shit design imo.

If you still need one pm me as i have a spare Im in Kenilworth if you want to inspect first?

The input shaft seal shouldn't leak at all, especially when static, :anguished: Replacing it is a pain because you have to open up the gearbox and remove the input shaft assembly to get to it, something which I've just done myself.

Thanks for clearing that up Splmum, that's good news. :) I've just came back from my works measurement labs where i measured the wear limits on the removed synchro and both are well in spec at 0.8 and 0.7mm. This is good news in that i can reuse them (tbh there was no signs of wear on any of the...

All other synchro gaps and gear floats are within spec, just 2nd synchro is out of spec. Ive removed the bearings which allowed me to slide off the 2nd synchro which is a dual cone type. Will Nissan sell both wear rings as a set? The reason i ask is that the manual and Nissan4u only states one...

yeah, i agree. I've never understood why some people buy parts like timing chain, baulk rings, cam shafts etc 2nd hand. It's not much more money to buy them new and get peace of mind after all the effort of fitting them. :innocent:

Hello All, I've stripped my gearbox and noted 2nd gear has too much float and synchro wear so i need to get a new one? Is a dealership the best/only place to get this? :)

Sorry for the late respnse, i havent logged in for a while, Have you still got the seat? Whereabouts in sunny Oxfordshire are you? :blush:

I didnt know there was 2 phases, its a 1992 import, ill take a look at the passenger seat in the morning. Cheers

I've heard most heads have hairline cracks in anyway. My gut feeling is that these are stress relief cracks and the engine would have shat itself A long time ago if they were still opening up. Milage states 110k by the way.

Just removed my head and found some hairline cracks running between plug and exhaust valves in Cylinders 2, 3 and 4. Are these show stoppers? My plan is to grind them away, rebuild and run engine at max 300bhp max If it is a show stopper does anyone have one for sale!

Use a standard spanner but then a screw driver between the manifold to lever it down, Or 2 spanners connected,