Advice for Engine Build please

G

gtirshark

New Member
Hi Guys,

I was looking into building an engine with reliability and power in mind in that order.

Please bear with me as I am not a mechanic of any sort.

The parts I have at my disposal are as follows:

Standard engine with rebuilt standard turbo

Bogdan's Turbo Elbow (nice, clean job btw)

I have a GT35r turbo with AMS manifold and Tial Wastegate

3" Downpipe

3" Decat

Kakimoto twinloop exhaust with a Greddy bypass system

Ported manifold

Walbro fuel pump

K&N air filter extended toward front bumper air duct

FMIC with custom radiator and fans

Magnacore competition leads

Evo 550 cc injectors

Exedy clutch

g force 32 way adjustable suspension

apexi strut brace

dash dodge cusco roll cage

big brakes - 4 pot - hi spec motorsport

HKS evcs boost controller


I am planning on running the GT35, so I assume I would need to replace engine parts.

In my little head this would be:

Forged crankshaft

Forged Pistons

HKS 264 cams

Some sort of valve replacement

As you can see my knowledge is limited so I would really appreciate if you guys could come up with a way I could use the GT35 whilst having a decent amount of power and with reliability/safety in mind.

I know I would have to scrap the 550cc injectors and change them for something bigger, but I will let you guys handle the recommendations

Reading through this forum, I thought it best to ask here first rather than visitng engine builders with no experience of building a decent R engine.

In the end, I was thinking of taking the car to Fusion Motorsport to handle all the maps and tuning.

Yeah so basically, I need recommendations that will register in my unmechanical head

I do apologise if I have been a total engine noob.

Thanks in advance
 
keastygtir

keastygtir

Well-Known Member
The spec looks good, it really depends what sort of output and use of the car will be.

Fusion do a nice little guide on the website for tuning. I would suggest that the magnecor leads are not used.
 
G

gtirshark

New Member
car will be for track more than road but will be driven on the road.

I need component recommendations for exactly what I need.

Any justification for the leads?
 
fubar andy

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
gtirshark said:
  • I have a GT35r turbo with AMS manifold and Tial Wastegate
  • 3" Downpipe
  • 3" Decat
  • Kakimoto twinloop exhaust with a Greddy bypass system
  • K&N air filter extended toward front bumper air duct
  • Magnacore competition leads
  • Evo 550 cc injectors
  • dash dodge cusco roll cage
  • big brakes - 4 pot - hi spec motorsport
  • Forged crankshaft
  • HKS 264 cams
  • Some sort of valve replacement
Click to expand...
As mentioned this is a pretty decent list, I'll add my thoughts to your build:

What BHP are you looking to achieve?

The reason I ask is, if you are going to track the car on a regular basis you might want to tailor your build more towards a sympathetic track set up and also longevity.

My current (broken) car is track orientated, however the wear and tear to it on the track is substantially higher than when used on the road.

The car runs aprox 300bhp with a turbo capable of 350-370bhp, but its never used that power because at 300bhp the wear and tear hospitalises it back into the garage, whether its gearbox issues, engine wear, turbo failure etc.

A few points I would look at with regards your list...

With a GT35R turbo, that might be a little unrealistic on a track where a GT3071R might be more appropriate? (I'm sure the turbo nerds on here can elaborate better on flow and usability on track / form over function...but that's just my opinion)

Exhaust wise, I would just go for a bespoke full 3" system. I would recommend (a local) good exhaust builder that knows what they are doing.

I might have missed this, but what air flow metre are you going to be using with your intake system?

Also what ECU are you thinking of using?

Standard OEM Nissan ign leads are perfectly adequate for high bhp applications.

As you mentioned 555cc injectors are not enough, 700cc - 1000cc depending in BHP output (I run 700cc)

If you are seriously tracking the car, make sure the Cusco cage has at least 1 cross bar in the rear (or 2 cross bars to make an "X"), this should be mandatory. I've seen 2 cars this year cripple with cages that don't offer any kind of serious "X" style roll over protection.

Brakes should be over 300mm dia. Best quality pads you can afford front and REAR, same with brake fluid and braided lines all round.

Standard GTiR OEM crank is 700bhp+ rated

HKS cams, or any brand. If you fit them, get them dialed in with adjustable cam gears.

I haven't bothered with any valve replacement, I've just opened up and smoothed the head for better flow as the standard Nissan casts are naff.

Last and the most important (in my opinion)...what are you going to do with the gearbox regards the increase of power and wear?
Even at 300bhp, I've had the gearbox out 17 times for failures, gear selectors, stripped gears (3rd & 4th) broken casings and numerous other annoying failures.
I'm now running a Quaife gear kit and I still have problems at 300bhp when on track.

Food for thought... :yum:
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
if you guys could come up with a way I could use the GT35 whilst having a decent amount of power and with reliability/safety in mind.
Click to expand...
What power are you aiming for? The GT35r is a 550bhp+ capable turbo isn't it? You'll probably need plenty of revs to keep it on song.
Hope you've got a good strong gearbox to go with that.
 
G

gtirshark

New Member
#fubar andy

thanks for a detailed response

im not very fussed about numbers at present and i could always swap the gt35 for a gt30 at any point

what i want i something that can do a decent 1/4 mile run

afm would be a z32

ecu i was thinking nistune or something standalone (again i have no knowledge on this)

at the moment the engine is out to replace the clutch.

the leads have worked well so i just left them on rather than rocking the boat

i was looking at 1000cc injectors

i will look into the 'X' shape for safety thanks for that

disks are all sorted and lines, just looking for a good brake pad all around

yeah somebodies told me to get the head done like yours

i know nothing about gearboxes again and would like recommendations lol
 
G

gtirshark

New Member
fast guy -

i think its around 640bhp

again i know nothing about gearboxes

i just have the standard one and it is perfectly reliable

currently drained of oil etc whilst engine is out of the car
and was working well when my car went against a c63 amg noise machine last month
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
gtirshark said:
again i know nothing about gearboxes

i just have the standard one and it is perfectly reliable
Click to expand...
Don't expect it to last long if you fit the GT35R. ;)
I hope you beat that Merc. ;)

I have a feeling the Z32 might be maxed out by the GT35R.
Ed at Fusion will get the best out of Nistune for you.

PS What's a decent 1/4?
 
G

gtirshark

New Member
mercedes bloke was suprised but i did have one seat in there at the time and was standard clutch which crumbled to dust a day later lol

I think ill send fusion an email. I "just want a fast car that can manage a standing 1/4 mile run in 10-11 seconds?"


And hopefully somebody with some more knowledge about turbos and transmissions will turn up here

Fast Guy said:
Don't expect it to last long if you fit the GT35R. ;)
I hope you beat that Merc. ;)

I have a feeling the Z32 might be maxed out by the GT35R.
Ed at Fusion will get the best out of Nistune for you.

PS What's a decent 1/4?
Click to expand...
 
johnny gtir

johnny gtir

Well-Known Member
Do not take this wrong but start back at the start a all round car fastroad/track will do a reasonable quarter mile. As mentioned if your more track based the engine will or can be built different to substain track temps etc but not the best for road in basic terms.
 
G

gtirshark

New Member
Hi johnny,

That is true i must admit as I wasnt very clear

The car will spend more time on the road than track

I was planning 2 short sessions of track time a year therefore best described as a fast road car than an all out track car

johnny gtir said:
Do not take this wrong but start back at the start a all round car fastroad/track will do a reasonable quarter mile. As mentioned if your more track based the engine will or can be built different to substain track temps etc but not the best for road in basic terms.
Click to expand...
 
johnny gtir

johnny gtir

Well-Known Member
Parts wise ( what's your budget for whole build)

Decent tyres
Exhaust needs to be free flowing but still hit say 95 db for most tracks ( maybe this is your bypass method)
Suspension, brakes a good choice of pad and decent hi temp fluid is a must. ( carbotec or CL are a popular pad)
Ecu there are nistune, power fc, syvecs are a few common ones used there are more
Injectors many types available was often sard 700 cc ( don't think there available new now) but depending on size wanted companies like rc do a wide range ( lots of others available)
Airflow meter z32 is common after that its find alternative or map sensor should your Ecu support it.
Fuel pump make sure you at least alter pick up if not for track run a swirl pot set up.
Clutch needs to be rated to power/torque your aiming for. Uprated clutch fork needed minimum for heavier clutches. Gearbox although built properly with parts are stronger than they get credit for( at times) you want to be looking for quaife or par box with as many upgraded parts possible inc the casing ( some high powered cars swap the box out full stop but this is a lot more work)

After this your fuel system,ignition system need to be running perfect various upgrades available on ign system. All pipes of any kind need to be at there best to hold increase in pressure heat in bay in general etc altered to suit bigger turbo.
A lot more to it than this but here is a start and a lot settle for 4-460 ish bhp done right will be fast and reliable as you push to 500 it's a different ball game altogether

After this comes engine and mapping at further cost ( hks264 cams not available new now ) well if you look you can get one or the other but off the shelf not available new as a pair ( think I am right in saying this)
 
johnny gtir

johnny gtir

Well-Known Member
No problem that's basic guide so much you can do like bushes on car bushes and springs on say gear stick so it's tight when selecting gears all sorts of clips clamps for hoses all depending on budgets if I remember tonight after work will do similar with basic advice on engine and parts. For example very basic 400-450 personally head work is not a must the money could be spent in other areas. Turbo choice is a big one
I am no expert and everyone has different opinions but I can give you some points to start and look into
 
A

astarozna

Active Member
Not to forget ARP rod bolts if you keep standard rods(good enough for 500+) but skip ARP head bolt upgrade (head lift under boost) and Cometic HG(doesn't seal properly). Corner weight the car for proper suspension setup, turbo wise gt35 would be abit laggy BorgWarner efr7163 the rest is as everybody suggested.
 
G

gtirshark

New Member
That would be great thank you so much for clearing this mess up

Sometimes forums can be daunting and confusing, which ended up with me having a dream but no real plan lol


johnny gtir said:
No problem that's basic guide so much you can do like bushes on car bushes and springs on say gear stick so it's tight when selecting gears all sorts of clips clamps for hoses all depending on budgets if I remember tonight after work will do similar with basic advice on engine and parts. For example very basic 400-450 personally head work is not a must the money could be spent in other areas. Turbo choice is a big one
I am no expert and everyone has different opinions but I can give you some points to start and look into
Click to expand...
hat
 
G

gtirshark

New Member
From what i have read thus far ARP rod bolts cause more issues than they are worth and there are better alternatives? Maybe u can confirm this

My friend who has an evo recommended a cosworth head gasket? But again i am no mechanic, maybe johnny can clear this issue up

Car has a good suspension setup and handled very well and was suprisingly nimble

astarozna said:
Not to forget ARP rod bolts if you keep standard rods(good enough for 500+) but skip ARP head bolt upgrade (head lift under boost) and Cometic HG(doesn't seal properly). Corner weight the car for proper suspension setup, turbo wise gt35 would be abit laggy BorgWarner efr7163 the rest is as everybody suggested.
Click to expand...
 
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